The Chef Sends His Regards

We were waiting for Brendan to arrive when the conversation turned to Yulao, one of our favorite restaurants in Beijing and the source of what is possibly the best lamb and beef kebabs in the whole city. Having spent an unhealthy number of evenings there, our crew was enthusiastically passing judgment on the menu when Brendan stepped into the room. "It's a great place," he said taking off his coat, "but don't look in the kitchen...."